An incredibly special Onward Travel group will set off for Provence next summer. The trip is already sold out, but the story behind it is worth sharing because this is more than just another culinary adventure in France. It’s a reunion, a homecoming, and a continuation of a travel tradition spanning more than three decades.

At the heart of this journey are three generations of women whose shared love of food, travel, and connection inspired the founding of Onward Travel. Winnie McClennen, her daughter Peggi Clauhs, and her granddaughters Kat Clauhs Dhand and Molly Crist have all played a role in building this legacy. Next year, they’ll travel together – alongside friends old and new – on a trip that traces their roots back to the early days of culinary tourism in the 1990s.

Marion far left, Peggi center, and Winnie far right

From a Farm Cottage to France

The story begins in the early 1990s, when Winnie, then living on a farm in Sellersville, PA, and already a grandmother, stumbled upon a brochure for a local cooking school. She was intrigued and called to offer her help. Winnie so excelled at and enjoyed her new part time job that when the school closed a few years later she took a leap and launched a cooking school of her own with her daughter. They named it The Cooking Cottage. She and Peggi ran classes out of a cozy cottage on the property, building a loyal base of home cooks eager to learn and taste.

From there, the adventures expanded beyond the kitchen. Shopping trips to New York City and Philadelphia turned into a daring new endeavor: an international culinary tour. The first destination? Julia Child’s home in France. That trip in 1996 was the start of something big.

Soon, The Cooking Cottage was leading international trips each year, to destinations including Italy, Greece, Spain, and, of course, France. The focus was always on authentic local experiences: cooking with market-fresh ingredients, dining at tucked-away bistros, and forging friendships along the way.

Over the years, repeat travelers became like family. “We had a lot of people who would just go with us every year, wherever we were going,” Peggi recalls. “It was a small group but fully engaged. We would see the same faces again and again.”

The Spirit of the Cooking Cottage Lives On

The Cooking Cottage closed in 2014, but its legacy lives on in Onward Travel, founded by Kat and Molly. While Onward Travels’ trips have evolved – often more active and adventurous than those early tours – the values remain the same: connection, curiosity, and delicious food in beautiful places.

Every now and then, an opportunity arises to revisit the slower-paced, cozy style of travel that characterized the Cooking Cottage days. This upcoming “France with Friends” trip is one of those moments.

It began with a request from Marion Bardman, a longtime traveler and friend of the family, who wanted to return to Provence while she still felt up for international travel. “She said, ‘I really want to do one more trip to Provence,’” Kat explains. “So Molly and I thought, well, we both want to go on that special trip with Marion. Then we asked Mom and Ta (what we call our grandmother) if they wanted to come, and they did. And that’s when I thought, let’s make this an homage to the old Cooking Cottage trips.”

Marion second from left, Winnie third from right, Peggi far right

A Multi-Generational Reunion

For Winnie, this will be her first international trip in over a decade.* “It will just be fun to go back and all be together,” she says. “It will still feel to me like a Cooking Cottage trip.”

Peggi is looking forward to seeing beloved hotels and restaurants through both nostalgic and fresh eyes. “We’re even going to a little bistro my mom and I went to decades ago,” she says. “It’s fun to go back to places and see they’re still much the same.”

For Kat and Molly, it’s a rare chance to travel together purely for the joy of it. As Onward Travel’s co-founders, they spend plenty of time on the road but usually as busy hosts, managing their groups. “Even on the rare trips we go on together, we’re never just sitting together at dinner,” Kat says. “This will be different. It’s more relaxed, and we get to enjoy it alongside Mom and Ta.”

Winnie front row third from right, Peggi front row third from left, Marion far right

Old Friends, New Faces

Though the trip honors Cooking Cottage history, it isn’t only for “alumni” or those who went on the original trip. The group will include a mix of repeat Onward travelers, friends from the Cooking Cottage era, and some who are brand new to both. Longtime friends of the family will join, along with others who’ve shared past travels but never visited Provence.

The itinerary is designed with a relaxed pace in mind, making it especially appealing to travelers who want time to soak up their surroundings, linger over meals, or simply enjoy the charm of the hotels.

Provence, Past and Present

The 2026 itinerary isn’t a recreation of that first 1996 trip, but it’s very much in the same spirit. The group will explore markets, visit vineyards, and dine at restaurants tucked away in the countryside. There will be leisurely mornings, afternoons in sun-kissed villages, and of course, plenty of time for tasty food and good conversation.

For some, like Winnie, a day or two may be best spent simply relaxing at the hotel – a choice that fits perfectly into this kind of trip. “We’re staying in places where that’s a nice thing to do,” Kat notes. “It’s about enjoying being in France, together.”

More Than a Trip

Even though the trip is sold out, if the story resonates with you, you should join the waitlist. This journey is about the threads of connection that run through a family, a business, and a community of travelers. It’s about honoring the past while savoring the present. And it’s about the simple joy of gathering friends – old and new – in a beautiful place, sharing meals, memories, and laughter.

As Peggi puts it, “It’s going to be really enjoyable. Charming hotels, great food, wonderful company. And the best part is having my mom and the girls there.”

For those who’ve traveled with the Cooking Cottage or Onward Travel before, the “France with Friends” trip might feel like coming home. And for those who haven’t, it’s a reminder of why we travel in the first place – not just to see the world, but to share it.

Join the Waitlist for France with Friends

* At the time of writing this blog post, it was to be my grandmother’s first trip abroad in over a decade. Earlier this year we lost our beloved grandfather, Pete, and last week Winnie surprised us all by signing up for a Viking Around-the-World cruise, departing in December! We are looking forward to chronicling her adventures here in this blog. Stay tuned! ~ Kat

At Onward Travel, we’re a small family business – and we believe in the power of supporting other small family businesses wherever we go. From the bustling food markets of Tuscany to the quiet fjordside bakeries in Norway, we seek out local artisans, farmers, winemakers, and chefs whose passion and hospitality shape the places they call home. These personal connections not only enrich our travelers’ experiences but also help sustain the communities we visit. Traveling this way feels more meaningful – and a whole lot more delicious.

Mozzarella and Memories on the Amalfi Coast

We love Italy’s Amalfi Coast and have been bringing travelers there for many years. One of the biggest reasons? To reconnect with a cheesemaker who has become like family to us. 

Biagio and Kat making mozzarella

Biagio Staiano is the last artisanal cheesemaker on the entire Amalfi Coast. He teaches our travelers how to make a big batch of fresh mozzarella, sharing his secrets along the way. If you’ve never experienced just-made mozzarella, it’s a tasty treat that you’ll never forget!

Biagio’s caseificio (cheese factory) is open daily to the public. The mozzarella class happens upstairs, where everyone gets to take a turn stretching the cheese and shaping it into a ball, twist, or braid. Biagio’s personality makes this such a special experience for our travelers – he’s hilarious and engaging! 

Kat met Biagio in 2017 when she was a leading a tour of the Amalfi Coast. He was a guest at a cooking class the group attended and led the cheesemaking portion. “It was the clear highlight of the tour. So, when we returned to Amalfi with two groups in 2019, I got in touch, and he offered a class at his cheese shop. We have been there seven times with groups since 2019!” exclaimed Kat.

Cheese making in Amalfi with Biagio in 2024

Biagio’s family has been producing cheese and mozzarella with cow’s milk for four generations. His father opened the cheese shop fifty years ago to sell the cheese his family made. He chose a small, two-story, abandoned chapel built in 1800 in the Piazza Fontana in Ravello.

Biagio started working in the shop as soon as he was old enough – making mozzarella in the laboratory before going to school. Today, Biagio runs the business with his mother’s help. Biagio’s wife Karolina, who assists with the mozzarella classes, says her curd-making experience plays an important role. She and Biagio met more than 20 years ago in Krakow, Poland, when they were both living there. They eventually decided to move back to Ravello and run the family shop. 

“Biagio produces his cheese using fresh, local cow’s milk, natural rennet, and Sicilian sea salt – no artificial additives or preservatives are used. The entire process is handmade, and this very high-quality cheese is sold daily in his shop only,” said Karolina. Biagio only offers his mozzarella class on request, and our travelers always say it’s a highlight of their trip. 

A Ravello Business where Family is the Main Ingredient

We’ve also gotten close to another family in Ravello, and their business is Da Ciccio Cielo Mare Terra, established in 1911. The Cavaliere family has a small hotel, winery, and our favorite restaurant in the region, where sourdough bread is prepared daily. It’s truly a family affair as all four children of Ciccio are involved: Giuseppe is the sommelier, Antonio the maître d’hôtel, Marco the executive chef and Stefano handles public relations. 

Kat with travelers on the terrace of Da Ciccio in 2024

A highlight of our visit to Da Ciccio is the special hands-on cooking class they offer for our travelers, with a tour of their organic farm which includes vineyards, fruit trees, lemon groves and vegetable gardens – as well as family secrets and local stories. Our travelers always find it a delight to spend time with this multi-generational family!

Ballymaloe: Ireland’s Farm-to-Table Legacy

But it’s not only Italy where our family relationships are strong. Whenever we visit Ireland, we include a visit to Ballymaloe Cookery School and Ballymaloe House in County Cork. This school has been in business since 1983 and offers a renowned 12-week cooking program, as well as an organic farm. Founded by Darina Allen and her brother Rory O’Connell, it is one of the most prestigious cooking schools in the world. 

Molly at Ballymaloe 

In 2008, Molly took a semester off from college to work at Ballymaloe. “Once the shock of all the dishwashing I had to do wore off, I had a wonderful time living amidst the farm, gardens, and other food enthusiasts. When I wasn’t earning my keep cooking for and working at the local farmers’ market, I spent plenty of time in Darina’s own kitchen and enjoyed many cooking classes at the school,” said Molly. 

This family-owned country house hotel and restaurant is recognized as the birthplace of modern Irish cuisine. Sustainability is their guiding principle, and their herb garden is the stuff of gardening dreams!

Molly with travelers at Ballymaloe in 2017

Crete’s Living Traditions: Meet the Makers

One of our new tour destinations this year is Crete, and we have partnered with Mirsini Iliopoulou, a professional guide passionate about her homeland of Greece. Mirsini lives in the picturesque coastal town of Rethymno (one of our stops on the tour) and often spends time in her mountain village, helping with the family orchards filled with cherries, apples, walnuts, and more. She loves to focus on the people and experiences of Crete, just as we do on all our small group tours. 

Mirsini guiding a tour in Crete

From artisan bakers to monks who make olive oil and wine to knifemakers, we will learn how these small, family-run businesses are deeply linked to Crete’s cultural and agricultural history. 

We’ll meet a phyllo expert who is now 88 years old. His son and grandson mostly run the business today, but he still prepares baklava pastry meticulously. We’ll visit a traditional potter who has been creating pottery his entire life, while his wife works on the conservation of ancient pottery. They’ve joined forces to create pieces that are modern yet follow ancient techniques.

Greek musical instruments

We’ll also visit a family business that handcrafts the traditional Cretan lyra – a three stringed, pear-shaped musical instrument. “One of the things Crete is famous for is music,” Mirsini shared. “This workshop has collaborated with some of the most famous musicians on the island, making instruments for them and influencing the history of music. We’ll meet the son who will show us the different instruments, how they are made, and, if we’re lucky, play a tune or two!” 

Hidden Hospitality in the Heart of Venice

When our group of ladies travels to Venice this September, they will stay at the three-star Hotel Al Ponte Mocenigo, managed by our favorite owner-operators, Valter and Sandro. This ancient Venetian palace features rooms equipped with every modern comfort yet furnished in the fashionable style of 18th century Venice. The location is a dream – well away from the hubbub of Rialto and St. Mark’s Square – so our travelers feel less like tourists. 

Our Venice travelers will also dine at a romantic Venetian osteria where the talented young husband is the chef and his wife manages the front of the house. They have become friends of Onward Travel, and the food is simply spectacular. The menu captures the simplicity of traditional Venetian cuisine, with a few contemporary reinterpretations that surprise and delight diners, dish after dish. The osteria overlooks the Rio de le Colonete, one of the most visited and photographed Venetian views. 

Venice, Italy

At Onward Travel, we believe the most memorable moments happen when people connect – family to family, across cultures and generations. These relationships bring depth and heart to every journey we plan, whether we’re rolling mozzarella with Biagio in Ravello or listening to handmade lyra in a Cretan workshop. Supporting small family-run businesses is about more than great meals and local charm (though there’s plenty of that!), it’s about traveling in a way that sustains communities, honors tradition, and fosters real human connection.

Ready to join us on a trip full of heart and flavor?

See all of our upcoming tours

We are so excited to bring a new destination to our travelers this year: Crete, the island with everything! 

Both weeks of this tour booked quickly directly from our interest lists (which is why it’s important to join those), but we want to introduce you to the local who will be leading our travelers through their adventure in Greece. Mirsini Iliopoulou is a professional guide passionate about her homeland of Crete. 

Meet Mirsini

After getting her psychology degree, she left Greece to travel, work and study in the U.K. and Spain for a decade. But home beckoned her back. Her parents were getting older, and she was interested in doing something outside of her work in counseling and mental health. “I wanted to do something new and fun, so I took a course to become a guide in Greece, which is an intensive two-year program. I did hiking tours, food tours, all while studying history and archeology and exploring this new path. It happened organically. I love rediscovering Crete and when I returned, I had a whole new perspective,” said Mirsini. 

She enjoys the relaxed pace of life, proximity to nature, and good food and wine on Crete. Mirsini lives in the picturesque coastal town of Rethymno (one of our stops on the tour) and often spends time at her village in the mountains helping out with the family orchards which have cherries, apples, walnuts, etc.  

Cherry picking season in Mirsini’s village

Mirsini was a natural choice to partner with us to plan these tours because she loves to focus on the people and experiences of Crete, just as Onward Travel does in our small group tours. “I was away for a long time before I realized I wanted to come back to my roots. I want to share the sense of community we have in Crete with our travelers,” said Mirsini. 

That’s evident from the trip’s itinerary which begins in Chania on the west side of the island. Mirsini says it’s the most cosmopolitan city on the island, with lots of restaurants and small shops. It’s the most picturesque part of the island, but it has a lot of history as well. Our group will go on a walking tour of the city and sunset boat ride from a port that dates back 500 years. 

Evening in Chania

Artisanal Adventures

Mirsini is most excited to introduce her favorite artisans to our groups. From artisan bakers to monks who make olive oil and wine to knifemakers, who are an important point of reference in Crete, we will learn how these people are linked to the history of the island. “There are just a few people still making knives in an artisanal way. The knives in the Cretan culture demonstrate pride and resistance, and our travelers will get to take one small knife home with them,” said Mirsini. They will also get the opportunity to make a mosaic, which is an art form that endures through centuries. We’ll learn age-old techniques to create our own masterpieces. 

Hometown Heroes

Mirsini is excited to share her hometown of Rethymno with our groups. “On the way, we’ll visit the archeological site of Aptera which provides amazing 360 degree views of the valley, sea, port and mountains. It’s majestic! We’ll talk about the different city states of Crete and the ancient history of the island as we take in the breathtaking views,” said Mirsini. 

Ancient theatre of Aptera

View from the archeological site of Aptera

And we have more artisans for you to meet there! First, you’ll visit a famous phyllo master who is 88 years old. His son and grandson mostly run the business now, but he still prepares baklava pastry meticulously.  

We’ll visit yet another family business, the workshop of a musical instrument master who still creates the three-stringed, pear-shaped Cretan lyra in the laborious traditional way. “One of the things Crete is famous for is music. This workshop has collaborated with some of the most famous musicians on the island making instruments for them and influencing the history of music. We’ll meet the son who will show us the different instruments, how they are made, and hopefully play some music for us!” said Mirsini.  

Organic Olive Oil

Our groups will be a little early for the olive harvest which starts at the end of October, but it will be a real treat to visit an organic olive oil estate and experience a professional tasting. “Two different families press their olives at this estate and everything is done to their own philosophies, and they have completely different ways of doing it,” said Mirsini. We will also stop to pay homage to one of the oldest olive trees in the world, the Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves, which is somewhere between 2000-4000 years old.

Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves

A Day of Baking and Foraging

As we head closer to Mirsini’s grandparents’ village, we will meet yet another family business up in the mountains. They have a small hotel and restaurant with amazing views of the valley and the mountain known as the birthplace of Zeus, according to Greek mythology. 

“We will bake bread just like the ancient Minoans would do in a wood-fired oven with Cretan yeast. The process hasn’t changed, and there’s something very magical about it,” said Mirsini. “While the bread rests, we will go for a walk in the woods to forage for herbs and plants which have extensive culinary and medicinal uses. Women typically have the role of foraging, although the father of the family will lead us on this adventure.”

Medicinal herbs and greens

The Heart of Creative Ancient Civilization

As our group makes its way to Archanes, we will stop in Margarites, one of Mirsini’s favorite villages on Crete because it is a traditional and notable pottery center. 

“We’ll visit a traditional potter who has been creating his entire life while his wife does conservation of ancient pottery. They join forces and create pottery that is modern, yet follows the ancient techniques,” said Mirsini. “At Kerameion, the ceramics are fired in a wood-burning kiln, which is like a celebration when it’s fired up.” The pottery is made to be functional – to serve water and wine, to store olives, fruit and honey, household items or flowers.

Food & Wine of Crete

We will meet many families along our journey through Crete, including a brother-sister duo who will lead us in a traditional hands-on cooking class featuring lamb, roasted for hours in a wood-fired stone oven, stuffed vegetables and grape leaves or dolmades, savory cheese pies and more. 

We will dine at some of Mirsini’s favorite restaurants, and as with every Onward Travel tour, you’ll have time to dine and experience the local culture on your own. Just don’t get caught in the local “traffic”! 

Traffic in Crete

The last family we will meet in Crete own a biodynamic winery in the wine-making region of Archanes, and we’ll learn about their processes and taste a full range of their delightful wines. “This family-owned business is one of the best wineries in Crete, and I am excited to share these unique wines with our travelers. The wine here is quite dry and fruity. It’s not at all like Spanish or French wine, it’s much lighter. You may have never tasted anything quite like it!” said Mirsini. 

Wines of Crete

The Cretan Connection

This journey to Crete includes getting to meet the artisans and families that have a history on the island as well as influence its future. We want our travelers to have a connection with the people, the history, the culture and the land. “For me, it’s important for our travelers to not only observe life here on Crete but get their hands into making things. I want them to experience the culture I will interpret for them. But rather than just sharing information, these travelers have a unique opportunity to experience Crete in a very special way,” said Mirsini. 

Join the 2026 waitlist

Our Cook Like a Tuscan tour in partnership with The Chopping Block, Chicago’s premiere recreational cooking school, is now in its seventh year. It is designed for people who love to cook and want to experience learning about the simple yet delicious cuisine and ingredients of central Italy, specifically Tuscany.

This tour appeals to avid home cooks, but we also have travelers who would not consider themselves experienced in the kitchen go on this trip. Nothing thrills us more than seeing when someone’s perspective about cooking changes in the week they travel with us.

Ted Quiballo and his wife Natalie had planned to travel to Italy for their 25th wedding anniversary. They were planning their first trip to Europe when Covid hit. Fast forward four years and the couple from Skokie, Illinois joined us this year for Cook Like a Tuscan to celebrate their 29th anniversary.

Natalie & Ted sporting their love for Panzano shirts

“We really enjoyed not just our anniversary day, but our anniversary week, getting to know the other travelers in our group and getting to know Tuscany. We spent one night in Florence and were able to experience other unique destinations like Siena and Montalcino. All those places were absolutely amazing,” said Ted.

Natalie & Ted in Florence

Ted said he did not consider himself a home cook before the trip, but he does help his wife in the kitchen, especially when it comes to plating, which he really enjoys. “I think that’s an important part of cooking. I always told my kids when they were growing up that there are three parts to cooking: there’s the actual cooking of the food, then there is the plating of the food, and then finally, the washing of the dishes. It’s all part of the cooking process,” said Ted. “But it was nice not to have to wash any dishes during our cooking classes in Italy!”

Ted learns from Chef Stefano

Cook Like a Tuscan features four hands-on cooking classes, from learning how to make Ribollita, a traditional Tuscan soup made from a hearty blend of vegetables, beans, and stale bread at the villa where we stay, to homemade pasta in a former abbey turned agritourism destination to homemade pizza and focaccia baked in wood-fired ovens brought to the villa overlooking vineyards and a sophisticated, gourmet menu, perfect for entertaining friends and family.

Ted cooking Ribollita at the villa

Those are the four hands-on cooking classes slated during this week, but there are even more opportunities to roll up your sleeves in the kitchen when you visit the famed butcher shop Antica Macelleria Cecchini of Dario Cecchini, an eighth-generation butcher in Panzano in Chianti. Our group gets a private butchery lesson and an opportunity to learn how to tenderize beef and make the famous “Sushi del Chianti,” which is beef tartare using the leanest part of the top round.

Our travelers at Antica Macelleria Cecchini 

Since they have returned from Italy, Ted and Natalie have been putting the knowledge they learned on the trip to good use, cooking for friends and family. They have made gnocchi, spaghetti, lasagna, biscotti, and a chicken ballotine recipe from the trip.

Prepping Chicken Ballotine

Plated Chicken Ballotine

Ted remembers his mother making homemade pasta when he was in grade school, but he has not done it since then until this trip. He says he was amazed at how simple the ingredients were, as well as the technique. “This trip really made cooking more accessible for me. I had some mental and physical barriers to cooking pasta, because I had a fixed mindset of seeing how things are done in America. You typically open a box of dry pasta, boil it, and open up a jar of Ragu and mix. When I saw how easy it really is to make fresh pasta, I developed more of a growth mindset in cooking,” said Ted.

Ted cooking at Badia Coltibuono

That was not the only time Ted changed his perspective about cooking on the tour. He recalls eating Chef Mirella’s risotto at the villa and commenting on how good it was to tour leader Peggi Clauhs. Peggi reminded him how easy it is to make risotto at home because you can give the stirring duties to your guests as they enjoy a glass of wine. “I kept telling Peggi I just don’t have the time, and the more I said I wouldn’t cook the risotto, the more Peggi kept telling me the details of how to cook it. She told me I had better make that risotto when I get home. So, of course, I had to try it. It was a tremendous success, so I shared some pictures in our trip’s WhatsApp group, and everyone had a good laugh celebrating me making the risotto,” said Ted.

Ted plating risotto

Ted’s Porcini Risotto

Ted says he was affectionately labeled the “troublemaker” in the cooking classes because of his questions and comments to the chefs. “There was one recipe with beets, and I asked if it was okay to substitute canned beets, and the chef just looked at me and asked why can’t I find fresh beets? She did not approve of that shortcut,” laughed Ted.

Cooking at Badia Coltibuono

Another time at the villa, Chef Mirella had made homemade cheesecake including her homemade strawberry jam. “The group got noticeably quiet as we all tasted it because it was so good. Then I made a comment to Peggi that it was so much better than cheesecake from Costco. Peggi and the other tour leader and sommelier Viktorija both just shook their heads at me with that Costco comparison,” laughs Ted.

Natalie & Ted with Chefs Stefano & Mirella at the villa

Ted says one of the reasons his perception of cooking has changed is due to the experiences surrounding it on the trip. “In every cooking class, I was able to connect with the chef. I felt comfortable asking them questions, which I did a lot of. They were all very personable and created a camaraderie between the chef and the class. I really loved that because it was not like a teacher-student relationship. They talked about their Italian culture. They talked about their experiences, how they came to be where they are in life, and why they do the things that they do while preparing their dishes,” said Ted.

Ted says cooking is not just about eating and that was never more obvious than it was on this trip. “I think it is more about sharing knowledge and culture. When you share that information, you create a deeper community. These chefs on this tour were not just sharing the recipes and techniques of how they made their dishes. They were sharing the culture of how they grew up, and I thought that was fascinating. You do not get that kind of information when you just go to a restaurant and eat the food,” said Ted.

That community is something Onward Travel strives to create in each of our small group tours. Ted said Cook Like a Tuscan exceeded his expectations not only because of the well-planned logistics but also because of the people in his group. “We created community together as a group as fast as we could simply by cooking together. When we share these cooking experiences, we also share our life experiences,” said Ted. That’s certainly been the case with this group who continues to share their cooking adventures with the rest of the group now that they are back home.

Ted is excited to continue to spread the community by cooking what he learned in Italy with his family and friends. “I am extremely excited about what I have learned. So, I want to share it with people. I now feel empowered to share the knowledge of what I learned in Tuscany with others so that they can try it themselves,” said Ted.

Does your perspective on cooking need a reset? Want to share a week of foodie love with a group of new friends? There’s no better place to do that than in Tuscany.

Join us for Cook Like a Tuscan in October 2025